An Elevated Experience

By Robert Quihuis

I was sitting atop a mountain in Norway eating a sandwich on a couch carved out of snow, Taylor Swift blasting in the background, when (as I often do on my adventures) I paused and reflected upon my current surroundings and circumstances. “How did I get here?” I often ask myself, but this time, because of the sheer magnificence of my current surroundings, it seemed all the more relevant. I never imagined myself traversing such majestic mountains in my lifetime. Fortunately, in my case, it was due to the dream of a proud visionary whose desire it was to showcase all the best things Norway has to offer that I found myself having an epic picnic on a snow couch. .

Norway is home to some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes, finest dining options, lavish boutique hotels and endless adventures. Yet perhaps, due to lack of advertising or the culturally humble disposition of its people, Norway remains a criminally underrated tourist destination. Travel expert and afore mentioned proud visionary, Torunn Tronsvang, recognized this and founded Up Norway, a travel company devoted to partnering with the best hotels, restaurants, and experiences Norway has to offer in order to curate incomparable custom travel itineraries.

My itinerary began with an overnight flight out of Newark, New Jersey, headed to Norway’s capital, Oslo. Yes, there are flights to Oslo out of SFO, but I was meeting a group of fellow travelers from the east coast. Our flights were booked on SAS (Scandinavian Airlines System) and we would be flying business class. This being my first time flying business class, I was giddy when I discovered how spacious and accommodating my seat was. I immediately slipped into my sleep socks, got cozy under the quilted comforter, and began obsessively fidgeting with all the control buttons. The movie selection was so-so but I was able to find a classic western to watch during a very nice dinner starting with a roasted lamb loin, followed by a seared filet of beef in mushroom ragout, and ending with a citrus custard tart, all accompanied by  a glass of red wine that the steward kept topping off before I could empty my glass. As the meal and movie wrapped up I turned my seat into a cozy bed, clicked on the vibrating massage feature and dozed off. I slept for what felt like only minutes before being woken and served breakfast. My seven-and-a-half-hour business class flight was over in the blink of an eye. Time literally flies when you’re having fun.

We landed in Oslo to high winds and snow. An odd sight considering it was mid-spring. Despite it being the most versatile season with the valleys a lush emerald green and perfect for hiking, the mountains are still snowy enough to ski. Without straying too far from the airport we hit our first stop, the SAS Museum, a free museum run by retired airline pilots. After a lesson on the history of the Norwegian air travel industry we set off for our next short flight to Alesund, a port town in western Norway. When traveling with Up Norway, it is a goal of theirs to provide their clients with a high-end experience; this includes details like using VIP airport access – no lines, plenty of snacks, and the latest model of BMW to transport us directly to our plane on the tarmac.

It was a less than an hour-long flight before we landed in Alesund and were picked up by our tour van. Our driver, Oskar, drove us through the winding valleys and ferried us across a fjord to our hotel. By then, we had traveled by air, land, and sea to reach Hotel Union Øye in Orsta. The hotel is a Relais & Châteaux property, a collection of elite individually owned luxury hotels that focus on providing guests a stay in a unique or historic landmark in a picturesque setting and the utmost in exquisite cuisine and extreme comfort. This place never ceased to surprise and impress me with its remarkable antique decor and attention to every minute detail. Every item of furniture or adornment was a time appropriate antique collected from all across Europe with each piece being at least a hundred years old and from an era when ornate, intricate, and hand-carved were the norm, all with a story laced into the hotel’s rich history.

In the morning we boarded a ship and cruised down the Hjørundfjord toward our first adventure, ski touring. As a Bay Area city boy, the concept was completely new to me. Ski touring is essentially a mix of cross country skiing and uphill hiking with the intent of skiing back down. Apparently it’s a very up and coming sport. We docked at Trandal, a one road village with a population of less than 10 and which consisted of a restaurant, a few houses, and a goat farm. We took the road into the clouds where the snow had begun to cover the ground and donned our ski tour gear. At this altitude our visibility was limited. The sky and the snow blended together “…like walking through a glass of milk” our host Jacob would say.We hiked for two miles. I’ve never sweat so much under falling snow. When we reached the valley at the end of our two mile trek we caught our breath and clicked our boots into ski mode.

As an avid snowboarder, I hadn’t used skis in twenty years but I figured it would be like riding a bike, an embedded skill. It was not. Thank goodness the world’s handsomest ski guide, Sebastian, was able to teach me to ski from scratch on the spot. With only two or three tumbles I eventually reached the bottom. With the spectacular views and the challenges of the uphill hike and the arduous ride down, I expected this to be the highlight of the trip. Little did I know, this was just the warm up.

Back by the dock we walked into Christian Gaard Bygdetun, where I savored one of those beers that soothes the whole nervous system with that first sip. I browsed the surroundings (an old wood & stone building adorned inside with viking, troll, and witch paraphernalia) until we were served a burger to end all burgers – venison from deer hunted in the forest just outside topped with green apple, pickled onion, and a crispy sheet of bacon cut paper thin. Crispy country-cut potatoes stood in place of fries and a sweet and tangy cloudberry concoction in lieu of ketchup. After that delicious and satisfying lunch, we made sure to take pictures at the Instagram-famous swing out front before hopping back on the boat and heading back to the hotel.

Back at the hotel we changed into bathrobes and took a short scenic stroll down to the pier where the sauna was located. Between the ski touring and the sauna I’m pretty sure that today was the sweatiest day of my life. When I reached my limit to heat tolerance I stepped outside and jumped into the arctic fjord. I know there are health benefits to cold plunges but it was hard to remember what those benefits were when I could only think in curse words.

For our last day in Orsta we went kayaking on the Hjørundfjord. The still waters reflected the small villages and towering mountains like a mirror making for striking symmetrical photos. It was nice to start the day with a bit of an upper body workout before heading to Romsdalen. The views along the road were jaw dropping – jagged cliffs covered in snow, translucent glass lakes harboring sunken villages, a new waterfall every mile. It got to the point where I just stopped taking pictures because I knew there was a new and breathtaking sight around the corner.

Along the way we stopped at Skarbø Gard, one of the oldest apple and dairy farms in the area. We were enthusiastically greeted by Christina, an 8th generation farmer with a PhD in anthropology, a bubbly disposition, and an infectious and frequent smile. The farm is run by her and her husband with a little help from the prior generations. She showed us around the grounds, from the orchard to the distillery to the barn where we met the sweetest cows who were eager to be petted and to give kisses with their rough tongues. For lunch we dined  in a repurposed stabbur (a raised food storage hut). Christina served us what will possibly be the freshest meal I will ever eat. Ninety-nine percent of the ingredients we were eating were grown only feet from where we sat. There was a kale salad, zucchini soup, and a Spanish potato dish – all vegetarian for which I was grateful after all the cow kisses. Each course was served with a corresponding cheese and cider. Christina expressed hopes of someday popularizing cider pairings versus wine when pairing with food.  Ambitious but not impossible as she had proved.

At the Villa Romsdalen, our next place of rest,  we met with the owners, Martin and Hanne. Martin told us the tale of how in 1941 the building in which we were currently standing was bombed to rubble and how in the same year was resurrected with haste. Martin and Hanne purchased the house in 2023 and take pride in incorporating many of the historic features into the more modern Scandinavian decor. Being the first guests ever, I recognized that it was still a work in progress and, with time, I think the Villa will become one of the hippest properties in Romsdalen. For dinner, the chef pulled out all the stops and served rare culinary works of art including a steak from the Dølafe, a rare local cow of which there are only 700 left, and a chunk of 2016 Kraftkar, the actual blue cheese that was named the world’s best cheese that year. All of us at the dinner table had goosebumps as it melted and cracked in our mouths.

With the midpoint of our trip behind us we approached what I consider the climax of adventure. A four mile climb to the ridge of Skarven, a mountain with an elevation of roughly 3,000ft. I’m by no means an athlete but I do consider myself to be in relatively decent shape. This six hour ski touring workout kicked my ass. In the parking lot I asked about our destination. Our tour guide Odd Eric (name not adjective) pointed out a ridge far off in the distance. I let out a slight chuckle as I figured he was just pulling my leg. He was not. My thighs and calves burned as we climbed higher and higher and the slopes became steeper and steeper. The main force driving me was the incredible view of that mountain and I was getting closer with every uphill step. Two thirds of the way up Eric pulled out his avalanche shovel and crafted a snow couch out of the side of the mountain where I pondered how fate and luck drew me to this mountain in this phenomenal place. The most charismatic member of our group, Katie, pirated the bluetooth speaker to blast Taylor Swift, and as we enjoyed our packed lunches, I came to realize that good luck and, without doubt, Up Norway had a lot to do with how I came to be on this extraordinary adventure. As we continued our climb, I’d never felt so obviously American as when we were huffing and puffing up the mountain blaring pop music as locals passed us by, seemingly with ease. The higher we got the tighter the knots in my stomach. I felt like a kid on a roller coaster. Each step a tic towards the top.

When we reached the peak I was rewarded with the most beautiful view I’ve ever seen. Mountains and fjords for miles, rolling out into the ocean far off on the horizon. I was overwhelmed and more than a bit nervous due to the sheer mountain face and the skis strapped to my feet. After I took what is now my new Insta profile pic, we snapped into ski mode. I slid fifteen feet before tumbling ten and reminded myself I had only learned to ski one day ago. I would compare the run to a steep blue which I could face with total confidence on my snowboard. I’ve never wanted, nay needed, a snowboard so bad in my life. To my dismay options were limited and there was only one way down this mountain, so I sucked it up and carried on. Eric was a saint encouraging me with a superhuman amount of patience and care. After what felt like one hundred tumbles later, the diclivity began to ease and I was able to gather my bearings. I had learned two important things on this trip: 1) How to ski and, 2) Where not to learn how to ski. I owe Eric a thousand thanks for getting me down that mountain with all my bones and tendons uncracked and intact. On the ride back to the Villa, Eric informed us that that was the easy run that didn’t involve ice picks and rock climbing. Earlier that day I would have thought he was just pulling my leg.

Before leaving Romsdalen we had to visit the Romsdalen Gondola, the cable car featured in the HBO series Succession. Admittedly I’ve never seen the show but judging by the reactions of the group it was a pretty big deal. We got a brief speech from the owner, Paul, about the sustainable features, innovative drilling techniques used in construction, and the behind-the-scenes tea on Succession before hopping on the gondola and soaring above the city to the mountain top. I didn’t think I could be caught off guard by another glorious view and once again I was proved wrong. Connected to the station is a restaurant/ cafe/gift shop. It was still closed when we arrived, so I can’t comment much on it but I did spot a taxidermied muskox which turned out to be the very muskox we were served as an appetizer the night prior.

For our last night we headed to the Hotel Brosundet, a beautiful waterfront property in Alesund, the Venice of Norway. It was a day of exploration, as opposed to physical activity, which my jelly legs were thankful for. The city was more lively and populated than any village we had seen up until this point, and now we saw more people than mountains. Before dinner I was able to bathe in the outdoor tubs overlooking the river and reflect back upon my journey. It all happened so fast yet we had done so much. The SAS museum and the Union Øye felt like ages ago. Our grand finale meal was at Sjøbua, a brand new seasonal seafood restaurant. I had my first caviar bump, a steak aged twenty one days under the sea, and a burnt honey and whiskey ice cream topped with caviar – unforgettable firsts.

Up Norway and its founder, Torunn aims to give tourists a profound experience that provides a window into Norwegian culture through food, outdoor expeditions, gracious hospitality, and most of all interactions with some of the most passionate and down-to-earth people I’ve ever come across. Up Norway has more than  accomplished its mission. I am humbled and inspired by the beauty of Norway’s daunting mountains and still fjords, the outstanding yet modest culinary artists who served foods I never imagined tasting, and the multi-generational farmers and hoteliers that hold a love for their profession that I have yet to see anywhere else. There is truly something spectacular and yet still untapped in beautiful Norway. Given the opportunity, there’s Norway one could a-fjord to miss it.

Plan your trip with Up Norway at upnorway.com.