We arrived at the gates of Amangiri after dark. We nearly drove right past it but there was nowhere else to go. Surely, we had arrived. We pulled up to an obscure gate and wondered, “Is this it?” Before we could press the button on what looks like an intercom, a disembodied voice welcomes us, greets us by name, and says, “We’ve been expecting you!”

The gates open and we drive down a ways, following the twists and turns emerging in the headlights. At last, after an extra-long day on the road, we have arrived. We are greeted with warm towels and hot tea at check-in and then promptly shown to our suite. The suite is lovely – spartan and sleek – furnished with a king-size bed, a large desk, and a cozy sofa, all facing the floor-to-ceiling glass doors leading out to the patio with a private fire pit. 

We quickly freshened up before heading to the Dining Room for dinner.  We were famished and looking forward to experiencing Amangiri’s “Spirit of the Journey” tasting menu featuring dishes inspired by flavors and ingredients indigenous to the Native American tribes of the region. We feasted on fried bread with cactus and sun-dried tomato aioli, tamales filled with wild Sedona mushrooms and desert squash salsa, honey-glazed duck with toasted almond and sour cherry vinaigrette, rainbow trout with rainbow trout caviar, and woodfire elk tenderloin with blue corn polenta – each dish representing a Native American tribe; it was spectacular.  Sitting at a table near the fireplace, sipping wine, and savoring a delicious meal is the perfect way to end a day of traveling. 

The next morning, we woke bright and early, ready to begin our first day at Amangiri. Jaws dropped as I peeled back the curtains to reveal the stark beauty of the majestic desert landscape  – endless sandstone, mesas, and blue sky. Having arrived in the dark of night, we missed this incredible view on our arrival. We knew that the setting at Amangiri would be stunning, we did look at the website after all. But pictures can’t begin to compare to the real thing. It’s not just the beauty of the desert, it’s the quiet. Amangiri is serene. If you seek peace, you will find it here. There are truly no words to describe it. You have to be there to feel it. 

Before breakfast, we took some time to explore the resort in broad daylight. Amangiri is simultaneously elegant and dystopian. The concrete buildings look like something from Dune. The fusion of architecture and topography is seamless. We would witness this from afar during our hike looking down at the resort from a higher elevation; the buildings melding into the desert. The resort’s grand centerpiece is the swimming pool built around a massive rock, and it is stunning.

At breakfast, we made a delightful discovery: Lobster Benedict – a poached egg, butter-poached lobster, and caviar. As tempting as the other menu items were, this would be our breakfast every day during our stay.  We split the Cast Iron Pancake for dessert – with the French-pressed coffee, it was perrrrfect. We didn’t feel an ounce of guilt since we had a fitness class and a hike scheduled directly after breakfast.

First on the agenda was a fitness class instructed by Fernando. Fernando put us on a challenging circuit training routine which included cardio, weightlifting, and squats – lots of squats. It really was a great way to start the day. These Daily Wellness classes are part of Amangiri’s Integrative Movement program which focuses on aligning the mind, body, and spirit.

Next, was a group hike. We met with a small group of fellow hikers and an adventure guide in the lobby. The hike begins steps away from the resort. The property, at 900 acres, is vast, and several hiking trails can be accessed right on the resort’s grounds. Our group followed the Cave Trail, a relatively easy hike with a moderate climb to Broken Arrow Cave, a significant archaeological site where Native American artifacts have been discovered. Adjacent to the cave is where painter Ulrike Arnold has created artwork which can be seen displayed throughout the resort. Arnold’s paintings made from meteorite dust are extraordinary. And, speaking of artwork, ancient petroglyphs can be seen along the trail. The hike was invigorating and informative. We also got a glimpse of the bridges between the mesas where one of Amangiri’s Via Ferratas (“iron road”) is located. This expedition involves a rock climb to the top of a mesa, followed by a journey via  an “iron road” of ladders, cables, and suspension bridges. This is an experience I would recommend for the adventurous – add it to your bucket list! 

After the workout and the hike, we were ready for some pampering at Amangiri Spa. We entered the hushed sanctuary lit only by several candles. Before long, we were summoned by our massage therapists for our 60-minute sessions – so relaxing. After the massages, we checked out the plunge pool and the dry and steam saunas. We spent the rest of our spa time in the step pool outside – a tranquil heated pool sheltered by the massive rock formations. Floating in the warm water with the blue sky and birds flying above is pure tranquility. I would have gladly spent the rest of the day floating me cares away, but I didn’t want to miss the next daily activity.

The beauty of Amangiri is that the resort has many interesting and meaningful activities arranged each day on-site, including the fitness classes, daily hikes, and a variety of cultural, musical, and artistic events. The event for the day was a wildlife presentation by animal enthusiast, Terry Moore. He arrived with his extensive collection of reptiles, along with a few scorpions and spiders. I hesitated to get too close, but Terry’s enthusiasm was contagious. To my surprise, I eventually mustered up the courage to befriend – and hold – a five-foot long albino snake. Terry regaled us with stories about his career as an animal trainer in Hollywood as everyone took turns holding the snake. One of the great things about traveling is learning and opening up to new experiences. Never in my life had I imagined I would let a snake coil itself around me! 

Dinner for the evening would be at Camp Sarika and we wanted to arrive early enough to tour the exclusive “glamping” grounds at Amangiri. Glamping is a stretch because although the “tents” are made of canvas, they most certainly are not the typical tents we are familiar with. Instead these elegant structures are referred to as “tented pavilions.” Each pavilion is furnished with the utmost comfort in mind and a private plunge pool and private UTV for getting around camp are included. Camp Sarika provides the ultimate in privacy and luxury. In fact, Camp Sarika is where big-time celebrities usually choose to stay. Amangiri and Camp Sarika are  discreet and many celebrities find solace here, so you’ll never know whom you might, or more likely, might not see.   

Guests at Camp Sarika and Amangiri have access to all of the amenities at both resorts and can choose to dine at Amangiri or at Camp Sarika. The dining menu at the Dining Room at Amangiri stays consistent and offers many possibilities. The menu at Camp Sarika changes each night, gathering inspiration from all over the world; one night we dined in Africa, and the following day, lunched in Asia. The food is creative and delicious. A stay at Amangiri and Camp Sarika includes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages; culinary delights can include lobster, caviar, and foie gras – worth it. 

Bright and early the next morning, we set off for an off-site excursion to see the slot canyons. We met up with our guide who picked us up in a luxury SUV and drove us to the Navajo Nation Slot Canyons. The slots are truly a marvel – an amazing showcase of how wind and water shape the earth over time. Our guide told us a bit about each shape and formation created in the rocks – The Dragon’s Eye, Abraham Lincoln, The Heart, The Eagle – the way the sunlight pours through the openings and creates these silhouettes and illusions is remarkable. There are several canyon tours to choose from, depending on skill and stamina. Some slots on the tour can be tight and narrow, but we chose a moderate slot with a wide path. The slot canyons are some of the most unique and beautiful scenery on the planet. 

Too soon, our time at Amangiri came to an end. Amangiri is, without a doubt, the apex of a five-star resort experience. It is definitely the most exclusive property we’ve ever had the opportunity to visit. It’s luxury at its extreme – the location, the food, the service, down to the minute details – Amangiri has it all. It’s an experience not to be missed.