by Robert Quihuis
| August, 26, 2022
Somehow, through miraculous fortune, I found myself in French Polynesia. I came here not really knowing what to expect beyond the bright blue lagoons and towering coconut trees you see in the pictures. What I found was unfathomable beauty and a way of life I thought only existed in history books. The people here have a symbiotic relationship with the land, and they take only what they need from the islands’ precious resources. Their contentment and love of land shows in their hospitality and general demeanor. You can’t go down a street without someone giving a smile and a nod or saying “la Orana” (Hello). Everyone is friendly and seems to share a common love for one another. It truly is a paradise.
My trip began in the best way possible, a premium blue flight via French Bee. Formerly French Blue, they are a relatively new up-and-coming airline. Admittedly, I did not know about French Bee until I took this trip, but I think their current low-key reputation means shorter lines and wait times. Upon boarding, I was so well taken care of that the vacation relaxation kicked in before we left the ground. As “premium blue” guests, we were greeted with champagne and hot towels. I then began to explore the entertainment options. The stewardess handed me a tablet with a range of popular magazines, and in front of me, there was a touch screen with a selection of movies, music, games and food and drinks. A unique little feature I stumbled upon were the live cams on the tail, hull, and nose. I always find it exciting when I take off to new destinations and to actually watch us leave the runway in real time was a bonus. After watching us take off, I dabbled with the music options. There’s something about French pop music that seems classier than American pop. Perhaps it’s the romantic language or because I don’t understand the content of their lyrics. After my fill of French music, I moved on to the movies and, like every predictable nerd, I settled on the latest Spiderman.
When my eyes began to get a bit heavy, I got into the sleep kit that was provided. It contained pillows, a blanket, a little pouch with ear plugs, an eye mask, toothbrush and even a pair of cozy blue socks. I reclined my seat, stretched out using every bit of the extra leg room and tucked myself in. Once I was nice and snug, I wanted to put on some nice relaxing music to whisk me off to sleep. Fortunately, there was a remote built into the armrest just for this occasion. I woke up just in time for dinner. Flavor-wise the food was okay, which I suppose is good considering the notoriety of airplane cuisine. The meal’s real strength lies in its variety. The entree was a beef stew with macaroni and cheese. Oddly enough this came with California rolls, brie and grapes, cheesecake, and a bread roll. I felt like I was at an international buffet. Even though it was an almost eight-hour flight the time just flew by (no pun intended)! Before I knew it we were landing in Tahiti.
I immediately noticed the architecture and decor at the airport. I’ve been on a bit of a tiki bar kick lately, so this was right up my alley. Since I took a late flight around 11 PM, I arrived around 5 AM, just in time to be welcomed by a beautiful sunrise and a ukulele band. I made my way to the front of the airport and received a lovely jasmine lei from the driver before being whisked off to the Te Moana Tahiti Resort. A lovely resort with an awesome open water swimming area. Right next to the infinity pool there is a section of coral reef teeming with tropical fish. I had to jump in for a snorkel but honestly the water is so clear you can just watch the fish from the overpassing bridge. I joined the resort manager for a couple of drinks and enjoyed a performance by former French “The Voice” contestant Teiva LC.
I was told that the people here rise and sleep with the sun which I’m guessing is why I left the hotel at 5 AM to catch a flight to Huahine. This island has a very traditional, holistic vibe to it. I stayed at the Moana Lodge, a charming nature-centric beachfront lodge. Think high-end glamping meets bed and breakfast on a white sands beach. It’s a place to get away from everything and get Zen between sharing home-cooked family style meals with the owners and other guests. There are only a handful of bungalows, so the experience feels very intimate and mealtimes offer a sort of bonding experience with the other guests and owners. It felt like a family meal where I was the only one solely speaking English. Dinner was charming but there was a bit of a language barrier so be sure to brush up on your French. Between meals they offer bicycles and kayaks so you can explore the island by land or sea with zero emissions while getting a real feel for the mana of the land.
On Huahine I took a cultural tour with Romain, a local mountain man/aspiring medicine man. He had so much information and passion for this island it was impossible not to be enthralled. He taught me that life around here is based around what the land provides. The land has been cultivated over centuries to provide every tropical fruit imaginable. The saying is “If you have feet, you can eat.” Meaning there’s always something delicious within walking distance. Romain’s mystic tour was a barefoot optional venture through the mountains where I explored ancient ritualistic sites and saw sacrificial stones and monuments once used to intimidate invaders. It was a great informative hike with great company. Also, be sure to visit the local pearl farms while on Huahine. There, I got a demonstration of how Tahitian pearls are curated. I was able to pick up a small satchel of misshapen pearls for a surprisingly low price. They may not be worth much due to small indentations or a lack of luster, but I couldn’t wait to bring back Tahitian pearls as a gift to my friends.
The next day it was back to traveling. This time to the island of Moorea. After a five-minute ride from the airport, I arrived at the Sofitel Kia Ora Moorea Beach Resort. This is the luxury resort that people dream about when they think of French Polynesia. The crystal-clear waters, the palm trees on white sand beaches, the overwater bungalows, it’s all here! I made my way down to the beach hut where there are complimentary rentals on kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkel gear. I picked up a pair of flippers and it was back to the water. Within five minutes of jumping in I was chasing a five-foot manta ray with my underwater camera. The amenities, staff and snorkeling here were top notch. It’s no wonder they have a five-star rating.
During this trip I had spent hours enamored by the tropical fish, corals, and rays I had spotted, however, I had really been hoping to swim with some sharks. Corallina Tours provided a trip that fulfilled and surpassed that dream. We saw swarms of nurse sharks feeding on the chum from that morning’s catch. We swam with a school of eagle rays, snapped pictures with sea turtles and 6-foot sting rays, and had enjoyed drinks while encircled by black tip sharks. When I had first arrived, I hoped to do a little scuba diving but as it turns out all the species, I wanted to see were visible via snorkeling on this tour. This was easily one of my favorite parts of the trip. This adventure with Carollina Tours is a must!
Finally, as my trip ended, I hopped on a ferry back to Tahiti. There I rented a car and headed out for a self-guided adventure. I made my way down to the Maraa Grotto. The shallow cave was much larger than I expected and the perfect place for a dip. It was the first swim I’d had in sub eighty-degree water all week. As cool as it was, the real treasure was the steep hike up to the rope swing atop the mountain. The pictures you take up there will be worth the hike but I wouldn’t recommend it to the faint of heart as it is quite a workout going up and not any easier getting down. Just a little further down the road I stopped at the Vaipahi Water Gardens. This is a beautifully curated, easily accessible garden loop built around a gorgeous waterfall. If you’re up for it there’s some hiking trails that lead you up the stream to some amazing lookout points.
This was a trip beyond comparison. It seemed like every experience I had was only surpassed by the next. There is nowhere to hide from the transcendent beauty around every corner, be it the translucent blue reefs or the indescribable sunrises and sunsets. I have to thank French Bee for such a comfortable and hospitable flight and Tahiti Tourism for planning these excursions in the perfect order. Their connections to the agencies and people that made this happen really pulled everything together. Every driver, resort staff, and especially the tour guides gave these islands a story and a soul like nowhere else I’ve been. If you’re ever fortunate enough to have the opportunity, don’t miss out. Tahiti is truly a unique and magical experience.